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These days the number of devices that are available to train a dog must give owners a headache when trying to decide what is right for their dog. For example I often smile when I see people using such extending leads for it has almost become a one upmanship fashion statement. However, the only statement it makes for me is "I cannot train my dog". I will not go any further with the pros and cons of each device but concentrate on all I feel is necessary for dog training.

First you need a good quality bridle leather or nylon lead of approximately 5 feet or 1.5 metres in length. It should have a handle at one end and a quality trigger hook at the other. That should be attached to one of two types of collar. One is a plain buckle collar of nylon or leather in a width suitable for the breed and size of dog under training. Alternatively a half check collar usually made of nylon with a metal ring at each end which is joined together by a short loop of chain. There will be a buckle that allows adjustment for size. Such adjustment will be correct when the two rings are still fractionally apart when pulled tight around the dog’s neck. Many have a snap on/off device which make it very easy to put in place around the dog’s neck and take off again.. Nothing else is necessary for the vast majority of dogs.

Several methods of teaching

various domestic training movements

The sit, the down, the recall and walking at heel?

TEACHING THE SIT

There are several ways to teach a dog to sit and, as with all dog training, methods should be varied to suit the subject under training.

Natural Method

As dogs and puppies frequently sit by their own volition, it is possible for us to add the command “Sit” to a movement they have already decided to make themselves.  Therefore an owner who, upon observing that the dog is about to sit, says “Sit”, as the dog sits he should be praised at a level of enthusiasm for his actions that will convey to him the message that you are pleased.  However excessive praise may incite him to prematurely move from that position.  This will vary greatly from dog to dog, but experimentation will soon reveal where the dividing line is and the instructor can advise.  

If totally consistent by saying “Sit” every time he places his bottom on the ground then the dog will learn what the command means.  After a few seconds of ensuring that he remains sitting by holding his attention, he should be given his release command so that he also learns when he is no longer required to sit.  Continually doing this over a period of time will teach the dog what this command means. The length of that time will vary from dog to dog and the expertise of the handler.

Method advantages

No extra effort is required for training as it is a question of waiting until the dog sits of his own volition.  This method can be taught in class and is very easy for pupils to continue with at home.  It also bypasses any clumsy training by beginners.  All they need to do is get the timing right.

Disadvantages

There will be some dogs who are too excitable for the owner to be able to keep them still by voice and general demeanor, and therefore other methods may be more appropriate.   The instructor should decide with each dog if this is a suitable method. Another disadvantage is waiting for a sit to occur naturally, and also if the dog is in active mode he will be less inclined to sit.  It is often advisable to employ another method as well.

Motivational method

This method relies upon either the dog’s natural greed or his love of toys.  If it is to be food then the art of using food as an incentive needs to have been taught first.  However, if it is to be a toy then I would prefer that the toy be of a size that can be secreted in the hands so that the dog is never sure whether or not the handler is holding it.  There can be exceptions to this rule.  However, as it might be food or toy I will generalise by referring to the motivational item as a lure but for the first few attempts it will be necessary to make it visible. Once the dog understands the handlers signals and body language it can quickly become invisible and only used on a random basis.

When the dog is standing the handler should move the lure towards the dog’s nose and mouth so he knows what it is and that it is available.  When seeing that he is keen to take it, smoothly but relatively quickly continue its movement over the top of his nose and eyes so that it is above his head.  This will force his head up to watch it, and as the act of looking up above his head will be made easier by sitting this is what he will do.  As he sits the command and praise should be given at the right level of enthusiasm while he is allowed to take the lure.  As this happens he should not immediately be allowed to move out of the position but rather be held in that position by voice and general demeanor.  If absolutely necessary the dog can also be held by gentle yet firm hands while using the voice to calm any excitement. What is important is that the habit of remaining in the sit position until told to move becomes instilled rather than the habit of taking up the position, getting the lure, and immediately moving.  Finally the dog should be given a release command which I will have previously taught to my class so that the dog knows he is free to move again.  Dependant upon dog and handler this procedure can usually be repeated three or four times. 

When the dog is lying down the lure can be moved in front of his nose and then over his head to entice him to sit.  As with the stand to the sit position, all else will apply.

Method advantages

If the dog is keen on treats and/or a toy then the method is suitable both in a class or at home. It is easily learned avoiding necessary expertise of lead manipulation.

Disadvantages

Some dogs become too excited with food or a toy to the extent that they do not easily learn by this method.  There is also the problem of beginner handlers leaving crumbs of food on the floor which subsequently distracts their own or others dogs.  Making dogs overweight must be guarded against. There can also be a problem with a toy if the dog is possessive over such items

Placing method

When I first started dog training this method was almost the only one used.  It relies on placing a hand on the dog’s rump to assist him to go into the sitting position.  With some dogs just gentle pressure on the dog’s rump will suffice and, as he sits, but not before, the command should be delivered followed by the right level of praise.  He should be kept still for a few seconds and then given his release command.  For a less than lively dog, before recommencing the exercise this can be followed by a little play but such tactics may over enthuse an excitable dog. 

Often this method is best carried out on the lead as this gives greater control.  Also if used generally during training, the lead by association will have become a symbol of carrying out instructions.  As the dog will usually be on the left hand side this method can be applied either walking him at heel or commence with the dog standing still.  With an amount of slack lead, held in the right hand, that will become tight when the hand is raised that hand is raised above the dog’s head to keep the front half of him steady.  As this is done the left hand is placed on the dog’s rear to ease him into a sitting position.  As he complies the command “Sit” is given followed by praise.  Praise should always be given when appropriate, but the dog should be kept still for a few seconds until the release command allows him to move or, if practising walking to heel, the handler and dog move off again.

When carrying out the above manoeuvre there is a choice for the handler of bending forwards or backwards.  They should always bend the trunk of the body backwards to avoid leaning over the dog which, to some, can be threatening.

While this is taught in class it should, like any teaching, be practiced, if possible, several times a day.  Handlers should bear in mind that little and often is the best way to teach.  Over several days or weeks you will find that you can start to fractionally deliver the command earlier to see if the dog responds without the aid of lead and hands as inducement.  If so praise is delivered.  If not, in that split second between compliance being obvious or not forthcoming, the lead and hands are used so that the one command rule is observed.

One or more of these methods may be suitable for the dog.  If they all are then there is the additional benefit that the dog learns the requirement under differing circumstances.  However, handlers should remember, whatever method is used, the secret is to ensure that the dog sits every time on one command.  To repeat the command without taking action is to teach disobedience by habit.

Method advantages

If consistently carried out the method is still valid.  An advantage is that when properly instructed the command sit is not constantly and erroneously repeated while the dog does not sit.

Disadvantages

This is a difficult method for handlers to get the knack of because like driving a car the handlers have to learn to co-ordinate differing parts of the body something different while timing is also crucial.  Also some breeds are more difficult than others to be placed into a sit position.  There is also the question of how much unnecessary pressure handlers exert on either lead or rump of dog.

In general for all methods

If the handler should want to take up Obedience or Working Trials then the handler should be taught to always ensure that the dog sits straight to the body.  If he is just to be a pet then it matters not at which angle he sits.

TEACHING THE  DOWN

There are several ways to teach a dog to go down and, just as with sit training, the method chosen should be the one to suit the dog under training.  Some households confuse the word down with meaning stop jumping up, or get off the furniture.  If this has been the case then the handler may be better advised to use a different command such as “Flat”.  Should this be the case for “Down” read “Flat” or another chosen word.

Natural Method

Dogs and puppies frequently go down by choice, therefore it is possible for the command “Down” to be given when they lie down of their own volition.  As the dog goes into the down position he should be praised at a level of enthusiasm that will not be excited enough to encourage him to move from that position yet get across the message that the handler is pleased. This will vary greatly from dog to dog, but experimentation will soon reveal where the dividing line is. If the handler is consistent in saying “Down” every time the dog goes down of his own accord he will soon learn what it means. 

Method advantages

No extra effort is required for training as it is a question of waiting until the dog goes down of his own volition.  This method can be taught in class and is very easy for pupils to continue with at home.  It also bypasses any clumsy training by beginners.  All they need to do is get the timing right.

Disadvantages

There will be some dogs who are too excitable for the owner to be able to keep them down by voice and general demeanour and therefore other methods may be more appropriate.   The instructor may make a decision that this method is suitable for some dogs but possibly not all. 

Another disadvantage is waiting for a down to occur naturally, and also if the dog is in active mode he will be less inclined to go down.

Motivational method

As with the sit this method relies upon either the dog’s natural greed or his love of toys, and all the advice I would have previously given about lures applies. 

Firstly the dog should have been taught to sit, for to start with it is easier to psychologically encourage a dog go down from the sitting position than it is when he is standing.  With all dog training if there is an intermediate step that will assist in the dog’s learning process it should be taken to help him more readily understand the teaching. Subsequently the progression to missing out the intermediate step can be taken.

The lure should be moved towards the dog’s nose and mouth and when seeing that he is keen to take it, smoothly but relatively quickly, it should be moved down to the ground in front of the dog so that to get it he will be encouraged to slide into a down position.   The hand is best pulled down at a slight angle away from his body and, as it reaches the ground, it continues away in a forward direction.  This should only be as far as enabling him to reach it when down.

As he goes down the command should be given followed by praise at the appropriate level of enthusiasm while allowing him to take the lure.  As this happens he should not immediately be allowed to move out of position but rather held where he is by voice and general demeanour. Once he is down praise should be part of the procedure, for the aim will be to dispense with the lure in due course and therefore praise will be his only reward. 

Once down,  with some dogs, just holding the lure in front of his nose for a few seconds without allowing him take it will be sufficient to hold him in position.  If absolutely necessary he can be held by gentle, yet firm, hands but also a soothing voice to calm excitement should be used. What is important is that the habit of remaining down until told he can move becomes instilled rather than the habit of  going down, getting the lure, and immediately moving. Finally give the dog his release command so that he is free to move.  This can be repeated once the same, or a fresh lure is ready. 

Method advantages

If the dog is keen on treats and/or a toy then the method is suitable both in a class or at home.  It is an easy method for handlers to understand.

Disadvantages

Some dogs become too excited with food or a toy to the extent that they do not easily learn by this method.  There is also the problem of beginner handlers leaving crumbs of food on the floor which subsequently distracts their own or others dogs.  There are also the dangers of dogs becoming overweight. Some dogs become too excited with a toy or become possessive over it to the extent that they do not easily learn by this method.  This can cause some mild or even worse aggression to handler problems.

Placing method

Placing the dog in the down can be achieved as a training exercise on the lead.  This is done by holding the lead handle in the right hand while quickly sliding the left hand down the lead until it reaches the dog’s collar.  Immediately this happens the dog should be guided to the ground by the continued action of the left hand.  To avoid bending over the dog, handlers should drop onto the left knee while doing this. As he goes into the down giving the command “Down” is followed by a suitable level of praise to reassure him. In most cases the dog will struggle but he should be kept in position until his struggles have ceased. Transferring the end of the lead, where it is connected to his collar, to the underside of the right foot ensures the dog is held securely to the ground.   This will enable handlers to stroke and soothe the dog so that he learns that he has accomplished the requirement. As he starts to get the idea handlers should gradually dispense with dropping onto one knee and also start to hold the lead progressively further towards the handle.   Throughout this progression the left lead holding hand still drops to the ground as the command is delivered. This will be a back up signal for the future as learning progresses.

Method advantages

Control is maintained at all times and as it involves compulsion most dogs perception of their handler’s practical display of leadership is a plus for general control of the dog.

Disadvantages

As a compulsive method it is not suitable for all dogs. Some will initially struggle to get away.  The dominant may consider it as a confrontation and may react aggressively.  The very low ranking may be considerably subdued by this method and therefore display a cowed demeanour.

THE RECALL

Using the dog’s name for a recall

Handlers can be taught to teach a recall using a specific command or the dog’s name. If it is the latter I always advise delivering the name in a different pitch of voice than that used conversationally.  In a normal household we often talk about the dog, using his name to specify who we are talking about.  Therefore the dog often hears his name without feeling the necessity to respond to it. Using a different pitch or tone a handler cannot accidentally use the command when they do not want the dog which may result in confusion in the dog’s mind.  I use one of my dog’s names as an example, raising my tone/pitch of voice a level above normal and drag out the name.  With my dog named Whizz it is easily elongated and delivered in an exciting manner.  So it becomes Whiiiizzz!

Generally

Whatever method is used I always teach that a command to return should not be constantly repeated while the dog obviously disobeys.  To do so is to set up a habit of disobedience and therefore a lack of respect for the handler.  It is also important for handlers to understand that when out with the dog’ and even in a class situation, to continue to call the dog and then secure him on lead and/or take him home sets up an association of displeasure and the possibility of the dog learning that it is better not to come when called.

Teaching a natural recall

Handlers can be taught to wait until they know the dog is naturally coming to them and as he does so he is immediately given his recall command.  When he arrives he is fondled and praised and subsequently given his release command.  His existing behaviour has been used to teach him to come when called.  In a class situation the dog can be held while the handler walks away.  At the appropriate time the dog is released and immediately the dog takes his first step to obviously return to his handler his command or name is delivered by the handler followed by praise and /or reward when he arrives.  It is preferable that the handler is still moving away when the command is delivered and even when the dog reaches the handler.  That is what I call teaching a recall naturally.  If this is done several hundred times spread over a few weeks the dog should have learned what is required by using his name in that different manner and that it is a pleasure to come when called. 

Method advantages

That the dog learns naturally and only psychology is used to bring about the desired movement. That psychology is to play on any insecurity that the dog has.  It requires no lead work from the handler and therefore the clumsy person has little to understand.

Disadvantages

Not suitable for dogs who are easily distracted by others rather than feeling insecure away from the handler. This method will not work unless consistently applied.  If the dog has already been consistently called without response being immediate, then to change to this method you will need a new command or different way of delivering his name.  In such a way his previous poor response to the command will be connected with the old way of calling him, but in the future a handler will only call him in the new way when it is known that he is he is coming anyway.

A further disadvantage for class situations is that very small training venues may not be ideal for this method.

Motivational method

This will be by use of a lure, be it food or a toy.  If it is to be food then the following should apply.

Using food to teach 

There are still trainers of dogs who will not use food under any circumstances as motivation for the dog.  Either this is the way they were originally taught or they have had poor results when trying to use it in the past.  I would suggest that most of those people adverse to the use of food have never really thought through the way in which a dog should be given food.  Just to say to someone “give him a tit-bit when he returns to you after you have called” is just not good enough.  As there is an art with many forms of dog training so is there with the use of food, and good dog trainers need to master this important motivational factor.

Rewarding a dog with food is a valid way of teaching dogs to be obedient.  Dogs learn everything by habit, and therefore, if they find that the result of an action is pleasurable, they are more likely to want to repeat that habit when the stimulus is given. Food used in this way might be referred to as treats or tit-bits, and there are some rules of its use that should be thoroughly understood. 

Also, unfortunately, many people use food in an entirely inappropriate manner, in many cases inadvertently rewarding the dog for something other than what they wish to reward.  Any reward must be instantaneous with the dog’s actions, and to reward after the event is only suitable for children to whom it can be subsequently explained why the reward is being given.  Such a verbal explanation is impossible with a dog, but an explanation that is suitable is to coincide that reward with the dog’s thoughts or actions.  Some owners send their dog into the garden to relieve itself, and when the dog returns they give him a treat for doing what he had been sent out to do.  In such a case the dog is being rewarded for returning rather than relieving himself.  Also as food should be instantaneous with an action it is somewhat inappropriate to use it for toilet training. 

If food is to be used, initially it should be used on every occasion when training to a specific command but gradually reduced to a random basis of say one out of five times.  This is so that the dog does not learn that he only need obey when there is food but that he obeys anyway in case there is food.  There is a big difference.

When food is used it should be ready in the hand before the command is given so that it can be instantly given upon compliance.  To allow the dog to comply and then search pockets, bag or tin for food is far too late and negates achieving the dog learning to associate his immediate actions with the pleasure of food.

Using food as a reward that is large enough to be seen by the dog is a big mistake.  Quickly many will understand that if the food cannot be seen there is no point in responding.  Food as a reward should always be small enough to be concealed between the thumb and next two fingers.  This is literally the secret to using food, for with the tit-bit secreted between thumb and those two fingers held together the dog will never know by sight whether their trainer is holding food or not.  For that reason any food which is not small enough to be concealed in this way is unsuitable.  Nearly all dog biscuits are far too large and not as appetising as other food might be.  I prefer to use something I can easily divide into smaller pieces that is enticing for the dog. I do not like the popular liver cake for it too easily leaves crumbs.  However, there are many proprietary brands of treats available and I cut them down with kitchen scissors to approximately 10 millimetres square and keep them in an empty 35 mm plastic film canister.  Such a container not only keeps them fresh but is small enough to be kept in a pocket. I may even then break off smaller pieces from those little squares to encourage the greedy dog to literally work for what is hardly bigger than a crumb. Apart from the out of sight advantage of small pieces of food such a ploy avoids the disadvantage of food training quickly making the dog overweight  Dogs will soon learn to comply for extremely small pieces that can easily be concealed between fingers and have a minimal effect on weight.

Food must always be used intelligently and, providing the dog is not constantly being given tit-bits just because he asks for them, the trainer will find that this method of rewarding can be of great assistance to the dog’s learning.  However it should never be seen as a substitute for good training but rather as an additional aid.

The method with a lure

What is extremely important is how a lure is used.  Initially the owner can bend towards the direction of the dog and extend an arm with that hand holding the lure.  However it is important to know when this should be done.  If the hand is thrust out too soon, and such ploys have been tried in the past, the dog may see this as a warning that he is about to be caught.  It is far better to wait until he is quite close and then offer him the lure.  If he accepts the bait then, as he comes for it, the owner must start to become more upright and then bring the arm close to the body so that the hand is tight to the area of the groin.  This is to develop the habit of the dog coming close to the handler, rather than the habit of where he keeps as far away as possible, but is still able to take the lure.  It may be necessary for the handler to continue backing away while holding the lure out in a tempting manner, but that hand must gradually be withdrawn to the groin as he approaches.

For me, with food or toy, I teach another important rule and that is that while the dog may start to get hold of the lure the owner should not immediately give it up.  Crafty dogs can learn to quickly take food and as they are doing so dodge away again.  A good practice is therefore to develop a habit of making the dog wait close to the body for a few seconds while he burrows in the fingers to extricate it.   While doing so gently rub the other hand around the dog’s neck and head which will simulate securing him by the collar.  While this happens, a habit of remaining close to the handler is being developed.  During this procedure the dog should be praised without over exciting him, so that his perception of pleasure upon returning is reinforced.  This routine assumes that the dog will not sit on command.  If he has already been taught how to, then the owner should incorporate a sit with it as well as this makes for extra reliability in the future.  However that sit needs to be close to the owner from the beginning, and it may be necessary to back away to ensure this. Once this has happened the handler should give the dog a release command so he knows he is no longer required to obey.

Method advantages

If the dog is keen on treats and/or a toy then the method is suitable both in a class or at home.  It is an easy method for handlers to understand.  However, they will also need to be taught exactly how to use a lure.

Disadvantages

Some dogs become too excited with food or a toy to the extent that they do not easily learn by this method.  There is also the problem of beginner handlers leaving crumbs of food on the floor which subsequently distracts their own or others dogs.  Indiscriminate use of food can cause weight problems.  Care must be taken that any handlers dog is reacting in any aggressive manner to possession of toys. Food can be inadvertently left on the floor and therefore be a distraction to others.

Formal recall lessons

I commence formal lessons without a sit having been taught. I teach handlers to hold the lead in either hand and walk forward with the dog.  This can also be easily carried out at home or in the park or a combination of the two.  Most dogs will pull to the end of the lead and, as this happens, the handler should walk slowly backwards while calling his name followed by the command “Come”.  As he responds the handler should let him know he has got it right by telling him how clever he is and, when he arrives, halt.  As this happens, either a previously taught sit command or a tit-bit held to his nose which is then drawn across the top of his head is used to induce him to look up and therefore sit.   If really necessary he can be placed into a sit position by use of the hand.  Either of these two latter actions should be carried out simultaneously with the command “Sit”, but handlers should remember to take action to ensure that the dog sits rather than continually repeating the command while hoping he will soon obey.  If food is also to be used then my previous advice about food should also be carefully followed.  The dog should not be allowed to immediately move away but be kept there, either by temporarily retaining the food before he eats or by a combination of voice, signal and restraint.

This training sequence can be repeated several times in a session but it is important that the dog is not bored or depressed with such lessons.  Dogs will vary in the number of times this lesson can be repeated without adverse reaction, and as an instructor I have to be aware of each dog and handler’s  limitations.  What can be done is to break off into a game so that everything is kept light-hearted and to repeat the sequence again while the dog thinks he is still playing.

Formal recall method No 2.

If the dog will wait on command then training can be advanced a little.  With the dog sitting he should be told to “Wait” then gently a pace away from him is taken before turning round to face him as this is done. Next the handler should slowly back away to the end of the lead but be ready to return should anything go wrong.  As this is done the lead should remain slack for the slightest tightening of it will teach him to anticipate being called.  At this stage, if necessary, I teach handlers to hold a flat hand signal up as a deterrent to premature movement.  Once at the end of the lead, which for this exercise really needs to be a minimum of five feet (1½ metres), and without it becoming taut, I teach handlers to stand still for two or three seconds.   Now the dog is called by name and or command “Come” while flicking both hands to the groin. This will have the effect of moving him towards his handler.  Initially standing still for two or three seconds is necessary to confuse the possibility of the dog learning to anticipate, which is what he will also do if the lead becomes tight before the owner has told him to move. 

I have suggested that a hand signal is also used and that it should be towards the groin.  This is where the owner wants the dog to come to, and that hand may now contain a tit-bit.  As the exercise is learned this hand signal will back up the command.  As the dog arrives the handler backs away to give both of them more room, and this can also be done while gathering in the lead’s slack as the dog moves towards the handler. When in position the command “Sit” is given while the handler ensures he does so by following previous advice on this subject. 

I do not allow handlers to pull the dog towards them for this will be wrongly interpreted by the dog and cause apprehension and/or a desire to do the opposite to that which is required.  He must be praised for getting it right and, indeed, everything should be done to make this a pleasurable experience.  If using a toy lure then immediately it should be followed with a controlled game before commencing again.  If using food the correct, previously discussed food procedure should be followed. Praise and fuss can also be used to ensure that his act of returning was pleasurable.  Finally if required he should be asked to sit with the handler ensuring that he does so on one command.

In general

If there is any intention to take up competitive dog training sports such as Obedience competitions then it is extremely advisable that certain actions additional to the following should be observed by the handler.  Any references to sitting in front of the owner, or at heel, should mean that the dog should sit perfectly straight on each occasion so that a habit of only sitting straight is developed.  If this is not the case and the reader only desires to have a well trained pet and friend, then the angle the dog sits at is superfluous.  This information is written for the pet dog owner or those who teach people without competition ambitions for their dog, so little reference is made to teaching precise movements.

WALKING TO HEEL

Suitable equipment

Firstly it must be decided what type of collar will be suitable.  For me it can be can be a plain leather or nylon collar with a buckle or clip, or what is known as a half check collar.  This latter collar should be made of nylon or leather that can be adjusted to suit the dog’s neck size and have a ring at either end through which a chain is looped.  On this loop of chain will be another ring which is then attached to the dog’s lead.   It is necessary to have the right size half check as the adjustment for size does not cater for all neck sizes.  To ascertain the correct fit, when pulled up tightly the rings at the end of the leather or nylon should almost meet but not quite.   As an instructor I ensure that handlers have suitable equipment.

Destroying the production of lead trigger

I always advise my students that if the dog has already learned the excitement factor of going for a walk this can be minimised by constantly producing lead and collar throughout the day so that he does not automatically connect their production with going out and thus become excited each time he sees them.

Holding the lead

Before starting, out in earnest handlers must learn how to hold the lead properly.  To do this the handler should understand there is no one set way of doing so as this will often depend upon breed, size, weight and height of the dog.  What is important is that he should be walking on just a few inches of slack lead.  Bearing in mind the above, one lead handling method is by holding the dog on the lead with the right hand looped through the handle.  The excess lead should then be gathered into folds in the same hand until there are just a few inches of slack lead.

or, even better, use a lead of exactly the right length.  To train the dog on the left hand side sometimes seems strange when the lead is held in the right hand.  When this lead holding method is used the right hand should remain in the place it was designed to be and should not be held across the body so that it gives the effect that the handler now has two left arms. 

For some it will feel awkward at first but they should persevere to see if, with use, it becomes more comfortable.  While they may feel the necessity to also hold the lead with the left hand they should try and avoid it.  If this temptation is too strong to resist then I prefer that they hold the lead in the left hand only.  Having written that I have no blinkered vision on how the lead should be held, preferring to vary my advice to suit each individual case.

Formal method

Normally handlers start from a halt with the dog sitting at heel. It is not always necessary to start with the dog sitting at heel but it is best to establish a consistent method of starting from a halt.  Such abut is one way of starting.  A consistent start should involve three things.  The first is that to use the dog’s name should be used to gain his attention, immediately followed by the command “Heel”, then finally the handlerso that he has a warning that another command will follow, but even before this handlers can try and get the dog to pay attention by making an interesting sound.  If he does so they have his attention. 

Immediately following his name should be the command “Heel” while finally the owner should step off with the left foot, preferably with the dog on the handler’s left side.  This is sometimes referred to as “one, two, three” and often those unused to dog handling will get the order wrong by starting with three followed by one and two.  It should be obvious that fractionally before setting off the dog should be given an indication of what is required.  So they should try and keep it in mind that “one” is the dog’s name, “two” is the command “Heel”, with “three” being stepping off.  However, for reasons explained below I am not really happy about any command such as “Heel” being given until the dog knows that he must walk beside the handler in the correct position.  In other words my preference is for the dog to be taught the correct position before the command is added.

Having set off, immediately the dog moves fractionally ahead or to the side ease the lead back so that it slightly checks the dog.  I cannot over stress the fact that this check must be before the lead goes tight, for to check with a slack lead will bring results whereas to pull from a tight lead will only achieve an aching shoulder. If the dog is all over the place then the handler should quietly and quickly manoeuvre him into the correct position.  It may mean they will have to continually repeat this check of the lead but at this stage it should not be accompanied with a command such as heel for reasons that I will subsequently explain.  They should just add the command during the odd moments he is walking in the correct position and intersperse it with praise to let him know he is getting it right.   Timing is important, for to praise and give him his command just as he moves ahead is bad timing which is likely to confuse the dog. 

If not starting from a halt, and it is only really necessary for a class all to move with their dogs at the same time, then the previous paragraph stating how to ease him into the correct position can still apply.  It is all about consistency, and at first it is better for handlers to practise at least once, if not more times a day, on a regular basis at home in a room, the hall or the garden, before attempting a walk to the park. 

Method advantages

This method retains more control than others.  It is often more suitable for certain types of dog and to a certain extent it has a corrective approach.

Disadvantages

While this method retains more control than others, because it is formal in its approach some handlers take a long time to correctly come to grip with the method for there are many facets of it they must learn.

Stop or change direction method

If the dog attempts to move ahead or pull the handler can be taught to either stop or else move in the opposite direction so that the dog is constantly fooled about the handler’s intended direction. 

Method advantages

It is a passive method of teaching the dog .

Disadvantages

In my experience this is the least effective method in terms of the percentage of dogs that can be trained to walk to heel this way.  Having said that some dogs are capable of learning by this method but they are generally the lower ranking type.  It can be a disruptive method in the class for it is only really possible for it to be used individually.   Some handlers spend months trying to get a result with this method when they should have quickly been changed to a more suitable method for their dog.

Motivational method (food)

If the dog has been keyed to treats and the handler taught how to use food as previously described, then a further method is for the handler to hold a tit bit in their left hand while holding the lead in the right hand.  This will be to gain the dog’s attention who if looking at the handler’s face cannot be in the wrong position.  When the treat is given will vary from dog to dog and also how it is held, for jumping up to get it can be a problem.  The chosen command for this exercise together with gentle praise is occasionally given when the dog is in the correct position. 

Method advantages

If the dog is keen on treats then the method is suitable both in a class or at home.

It is an easy method for handlers to understand.  However, they will also need to be taught exactly how to use a food lure.

Disadvantages

Some dogs become too excited with food to the extent that they do not easily learn by this method.  There is also the problem of beginner handlers leaving crumbs of food on the floor which subsequently distracts their own or others dogs.  Indiscriminate use of food can cause weight problems.

Another disadvantage is that it is not a suitable method for small dogs, particularly when they are handled by tall people.

Motivational method food (toy)

In the manner described for food above a small toy can be used as a lure to hold the dog’s attention on the toy and thus stay in the correct position.  Everything written above applies except that play with the toy will, at an appropriate time, be used as a reward as well as praise etc.

Method advantages

If the dog is keen on toys then the method is suitable both in a class or at home.  It is an easy method for handlers to understand.  However, they will also need to be taught exactly how to use their particular toy as a lure.

Disadvantages

Some dogs become too excited with a toy or become possessive over it to the extent that they do not easily learn by this method.  This can cause some mild or even worse aggression to handler problems.  It can also be difficult, and inappropriate, for handlers with small dogs

Head collars and harnesses method

Not my favourite method by any means but some get the result they want with these devices.  Head collars therefore have their use for some handlers.  For others they find a special harness works.  If either works for a handler and they arrive at class satisfied with this method of walking the dog at heel then I do not attempt to change the method.  If they do not work then they are often unsuited to teaching the dog to walk nicely to heel and I change the method.  While such devices can make walking the dog much easier, usually all they achieve is to disguise the problem of the dog not having been taught where his correct walking position is.

Method advantages

When successful this device appears to have cured the problem.

Disadvantages

Unfortunately such devices that work only disguise a continuing problem.  However many owners are happy to accept this.

General to all methods

With all heel methods, once the dog has learned the correct position I allow the handler to use their chosen heel command at commencement of the exercise and on all normal occasions.

If there is any intention to take up competitive dog training sports such as Obedience competitions then it is extremely advisable that certain actions additional to the following should be observed by the handler.  Any references to sitting in front of the owner, or at heel, should mean that the dog should sit perfectly straight on each occasion so that a habit of only sitting straight is developed.  If this is not the case and the reader only desires to have a well trained pet and friend then the angle the dog sits at is superfluous.  This information is written for the pet dog owner or those who teach people without competition ambitions for their dog, so little reference is made to teaching precise movements.

Change of methods when one to one

An example of methods changing on a one to one basis is that in 95% of cases I use the dog’s natural insecurity.

There is nothing new in stating that moving away from a dog and/or hiding from him can induce a return. Good dog trainers knew this before I started to handle dogs.  However, I do not believe it has  previously been properly explored or developed into a detailed theory of teaching a recall in this manner.  It explains the psychological aspects of the dog’s insecurity and how that very factor can work in our favour. The higher the level of insecurity the quicker the success.

Incentive', 'reinforcement', 'reward' 

and the importance of timing?

Incentive

By an explanation to the effect that very few dogs willfully disobey. Most just want to please their handlers but often find it hard to understand their requirements.

Incentive of play, food and general support by praise/touch will teach the dog to learn happily.

Reinforcement

My explanation is to the effect that every time a dog carries out an action he reinforces it by habit.  If the dog gets a pleasant result from that action he will want to repeat it.  An example used is that the first time the dog barks at the door to make the postman go away, inevitably he goes away.  The dog gets the desired result and therefore for up to six days a week he reinforces his actions of making the postman go away.  Instructors can ensure that handlers understand they should constantly reinforce what they want the dog to learn.

Reward

An original principle of dog training was correction and reward.  Correction is not the subject of this item but reward is.

A dog will learn what is required of his handler if he is physically capable and understands his handler's requirements.  One of the ways he understands such requirements is when rewarded he instantly gets it right.  This word instantly is expanded upon when dealing with the importance of timing.

Reward can be anything that gives the dog pleasure.  It may just be praise or touch, but can also be play or food or a sound associated with pleasure.  Whatever is used it must be used instantly to avoid any confusion as to why the dog has been rewarded

Very often food is used incorrectly because it is not given instantly the dog gets the requirement right.

Importance of Timing

As mentioned above, the word instantly is important in dog training.  While explanations of delayed reward can be given to a child of sufficient intelligent age that can never occur with dogs.  Therefore all interaction with a dog must include the element of perfect timing.

Timing is not just associated with reward or incentive for it also applies to vocal or other correction.  Therefore, the voice can be switched backwards and forwards from a nice tone to a corrective tone several times in as many seconds.  However, if the timing of the corrective voice and the rewarding voice is not immediate to the action, whether required or not, then confusion will be the result and learning will be prolonged or even never occur.

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